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Steps To Fix And Replace An Old Toilet
Most of the time people try to work around
an existing toilet. But an old toilet with a wall-hung tank
certainly can date a bathroom. Toilets can also look terrible
if badly stained from hard water or water that contains high
concentrations of iron.
Sometimes you may have to remove the toilet to lay a new floor
or to repair the floor under a leaking toilet. This can be
a messy job but it's not hard. If you don't want to buy a new
toilet, it's usually easy enough to bring an old toilet up
to snuff.
If you decide to keep the old toilet, check to see if there
is any leaking between the large cast-iron, copper, or plastic
pipe, sometimes called the soil pipe, and the toilet. Check
for rust stains on the soil stack (you usually can see the
soil stack from the basement if the toilet is on the first
floor). Also, look for the inspection door (these usually are
located in a closet in the wall behind the sink and toilet).
Sometimes you can see the soil stack and other drains from
here. If not, check the pipe in the basement. Rust stains running
down the pipe are a good indication of a toilet leak, although
these stains can come from other sources, such as a leak at
the roof collar or from a leaky supply pipe.
A
leaky toilet isn't as tough to fix as you might think. Just
follow these steps and you will have it back on the floor in
a couple of hours (the same steps apply if you are replacing
a toilet):
Step
1: Collect supplies from your local home center before
you tackle the toilet: Purchase a new wax ring to go between
the toilet and soil stack, 10 pounds of plumber's putty to
seal between the toilet base and floor, and a set of brass
hold-down bolts and nuts to fasten the toilet to the soil stack
flange. You should also pick up a flexible water supply tube
(most toilets use a 3/8 inch tube, but check yours) and a new
gasket to seal between the tank and the bowl.
Step
2: Turn off the water supply valve. (It's close to the
floor under the tank.) Flush the toilet to drain the water
from the tank and bowl. Sponge out as much as you can from
the tank to prevent water from spilling out when you remove
it. If you have a wall-mounted tank, it does not have to be
removed. If the tank is attached to the toilet, remove it by
loosening the hold-down bolts, using a screwdriver to keep
the bolts from turning inside the tank.
Step
3: Bale as much water from the toilet bowl as possible.
Use a wrench to remove the hold-down bolts located at the toilet
base. You might have to clean old, hard plumber's putty from
the bolt threads. If the bolts are corroded, cut through them
with a hacksaw blade between the nut and the washer. These
brass bolts are not too hard to cut.
Step
4: Rock the toilet back and forth to break its seal with
the floor. Then lift it up and off the soil stack. Dump the
remaining water into the tub, then place the bowl upside down
on a piece of cardboard or blanket to protect the porcelain
finish. Stuff newspapers or an old rag into the drainpipe to
contain odor.
Step
5: Use a putty knife to scrape old wax and putty from
the bottom of the bowl. Also scrape the top of the soil stack
flange. It is important to remove all the old, hard putty from
both surfaces.
Step
6: Unwrap the new wax ring and place it on the bowl.
Push it back and forth so it will stick in place. If it is
cold, allow the wax ring to warm up to room temperature. Or
if you are in a hurry, set it in some hot water for a couple
of minutes so it will soften and be more pliable. It is hard
to get the toilet to sit right in the soil stack flange if
the wax ring is hard and will not compress.
Step
7: Pack plumber's putty around the wax ring. Then twist
putty into a 1/2 inch-diameter rope, and put the rope around
the bottom edge of the toilet. This will provide a tight water
seal at the floor.
Step
8: Pack plumber's putty around the bolt slots in the
soil pipe flange, to hold the toilet hold-down bolts upright.
Place these bolts in the slots, and use more putty if needed
to hold them in place.
Step
9: Turn the bowl over and carefully align it so the hold-down
bolts pass through the holes in the base of the toilet. Then
push it down onto the soil stack flange with a slight twisting
motion. Use a level to assure that the bowl is level.
Step
10: Apply petroleum jelly to the tank bolts to prevent
corrosion. Then tighten the hold-down bolts. Make them snug
but don't over-tighten or you can crack the china. Use the
edge of a putty knife to remove excess putty that squeezes
out onto the floor.
Step
11: Put the tank back on the toilet, or if the tank is
wall hung, reconnect the water supply pipe. If the rubber seal
between the tank and bowl is cracked or hardened, replace it.
Step
12: Replace the water supply tube and turn the water
on. Check for leaks. Wait a few days to allow the toilet to
settle a little bit on the wax ring and plumber's putty, and
then tighten the hold-down bolts. Next, install the bolt covers
by placing plumber's putty in their base to hold them in place.
That's it, your done - congratulations!
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SolveYourProblem.com : 2007
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