SolveYourProblem:
Home Tips Article Series
How
To Replace A Faucet in 5 Steps
An
old, drippy faucet with most of the chrome worn off is a
sure sign of an outdated kitchen. Not only are
the new single-lever faucets easier to operate, they also are
less prone to leaking. When they eventually do leak, they are
easy to repair.
Probably
the hardest part of replacing a faucet is choosing a style. There are so many to choose from. The lever mechanism
and style are a matter of personal choice. We have found that
unless you are willing to spend at least $50 to $70 to purchase
a good quality faucet, you are probably better off rebuilding
the one you have. Inexpensive faucets have many plastic parts
that do not wear well or stand up to hard kitchen use. The
lever on a kitchen faucet takes a lot of abuse. Unless it is
well constructed, the faucet will soon begin to leak from the
base of the spout and from the ball mechanism.
Before purchasing a faucet, check your old sink to see how
many mounting holes there are and how far apart they are. Many
of the newer faucets require a center hole. Some older sinks
have only two widely spaced holes to accommodate an old-style
two-valve faucet. These holes also vary in their spacing, so
measure carefully and check the new faucet to be sure it will
fit your sink.
Also purchase a new set of riser tubes. Check the diameter
of the old tubes. They probably will be either 3/8 inch or
1/2 inch in diameter. The flexible plastic type is easiest
to install. This type is easy to cut with a sharp utility knife,
so purchase a set longer than you think necessary and cut them
to exact size on the job. You also will need a container of
plumber's putty to seal the joint between the faucet and sink.
This putty prevents water that accumulates on the sink from
seeping under the faucet base and dripping under the sink.
Faucet Installation
Installing a new faucet is easy. Mounting-hole locations and
supply tubes vary, but most faucets require the same basic
procedures. All come with complete directions, so follow the
specific recommendations of the manufacturer. Generally, here's
what's involved in swapping a kitchen faucet:
1.
Remove the old faucet. Turn off the water to the faucet
at the stop valves under the sink or at the main shutoff valve.
Then remove the riser tubes connecting the faucet to the water
lines. Loosen the hold-down bolts under the faucet, and then
pry the old faucet off the sink. It might be stuck in the hardened
plumber's putty. Then scrape all old putty or caulk off the
top of the sink area.
2.
Install the new faucet. Roll new plumber's putty into a
thin rope, and stick it around the underside perimeter of the
new faucet body. Then place the faucet on the sink and align
it. Tighten the hold-down bolts from underneath the sink until
the putty is squeezed out between the sink and the faucet base.
Run the tip of a screwdriver around the faucet base to cut
away the excess putty, then roll it into a ball and return
it to the container.
3.
Install the hot and cold riser tubes. Before the advent
of flexible plastic risers, this part of the installation was
sometimes frustrating. Most of the newer faucets have copper
tubes leading out of the valve body that extend below the sink
for several inches. This makes reaching the nuts easier, but
it creates another problem. Sometimes the ends of the faucet
tubes are so close to the stop valves that aligning the risers
is almost impossible without getting a leak. We found that
if you shut the water off, remove the shutoff valves, and reinstall
them so they are facing down, it becomes a simple matter to
run a long flexible riser tube down from the valve and loop
it up to the faucet valve. This is easier than trying to make
the riser take a sharp bend in the short distance between the
stop valve and faucet.
4.
Test the faucet. When the risers are in place, tighten
all nuts and remove the aerator from the end of the faucet
spigot and turn on the water. Allow it to run so it flushes
out any loose particles in the pipes. Then turn the water off
and check for leaks.
5.
Fix the leaks. If you find a leak, try tightening the compressing
nuts slightly. Most of the time, though, this will just make
the leak worse. If the leak persists, remake the joint and
try again. The secret to getting a leak-free joint is to have
the riser tube straight and fully seated in the compression
fitting before you tighten the nuts.
# # # # #
SolveYourProblem.com : 2007
> Home > Home
Tips: Main Page |
